Frames for embroidery and cross stitch projects need to be carefully chosen. Not every frame is suitable for this type of work, especially as they require a good deal of room. Your project is not like a photo, paper thin and able to fit every commercial frame out there, but there are good options.
First and foremost is to consider your project's size, and suitability for framing BEFORE you start your project. Too late at this point, you say, I know! But there are ways around that. Matting can help bridge the gaps between a project that is an awkward size and a commercial frame. It is a much cheaper option than having a custom frame made.
As I said in Matting, one of the nice things about using mat boards on your project, is that if you don't have a deep frame, this can help with making your frame work. You can skip the back board and yet still have a project that you don't have to fight to frame as you can use the mat board to hold it all in. Its not ideal, but it works.
Some commercial frames will come with matting in them, like mine did. I ignored it. Not only is it often a boring colour, but its also usually not the right size for my projects!
Things you will need
Your project- laced up and mounted on mat boards if you so choose
Screwdriver (optional and depends on what frame choice you have)
So, about those frames. As I said, not every frame out there is suitable. Flat frames are the bane of my life. But there are plenty of frames out there that have good depth. What do I mean about depth? Here's a shot-
See how the frame actually has a good bit of space between where the back board is and the edge of the frame? That's what you're looking for. Matting will add some depth to things, but most of it will come from your project. Fabric, especially Aida, is not thin, and it will add quite a bit, so if you choose a frame where the back board is already flush with the back edge of the frame, you're going to have a real tough time getting your project to stay put in it without resorting to ugliness and vast quantities of tape, which is liable to only hold for so long.
Making the right choice on your frame will make your life much easier. Look for depth and you won't go wrong. IKEA make a good line that have plenty of depth in them and are dead easy to deal with (and incidentally what I used to frame this Tiger).
Aside from that, I would also suggest looking for a colour that is complementary to your project. I personally avoid dark woods unless there are very vibrant and dark colours in my project, but that's mostly personal choice.
Really, this is mostly self-explanatory. Most of the work will be in selecting a good frame before you try to put it all together, but I'll run through the basics anyway.
Take your frame out of any of its packaging and put your frame face down.
If you're using mat boards, put the first one right side down. Layer the rest of your mat boards face down until you get to your project's layer, making certain each is placed face down.
If you're not using mat boards, just place your project face down on the glass.
Most frames have these little metal tags that stick out along the side. Try to make certain that any part of your project and the back board goes in so that these are still sticking out.
Also, if you don't have a deep frame, but are willing to use mat boards, you can get away with the lack of depth by using the mat board to secure your project, skipping the back board. Not ideal, but if your heart is set on a frame that won't work otherwise, it can certainly be an option.
If instructions came with your frame, I suggest following them as best as possible from here on out. If not, you want to secure your project and all the layers so that it will not move back and forth or up and down.
Those little metal tags? Start by pressing them down onto your back board. You want these nice and tight, so I usually will do more than just press by them hand. In this case- those are my "bad" scissors that I used to just push them down.
In this case, my frame had some brackets and screws. These are very easy to put in, and no, you can't screw it up as long as its provided by the manufacturer- as in, the screws will not be long enough to go through the side.
You should end up with is a nice tight frame that if you shake it gently you don't see any sliding of your project or the mat boards.
If wire is provided, its a nice way to hang- simply attach the wire to two screws on either side and pull the wire relatively tight. Secure it well, and you can hang it on the nail.
I'm not going to go into the ins and outs of hanging a picture, but I am going to congratulate you on making this far, at which point, you should have a beautiful project hanging on your wall!